Post by Dodgeboy426 on Nov 2, 2005 0:38:18 GMT -8
Another one from Ravonthe4x4ram:
Well heres what I did to install my voltage gauge
Tools required:
cordless or corded drill
holesaw (approximate size to your gauge)
drill bits (if you dont have a holesaw)
knife or small saw blade
rasp file (smoothing out OR enlarging the hole to make gauge fit)
a cheap slide or dial caliper (measureing your gauge)
sharpie pen (for marking where you want your cut to be)
compass (for marking the size hole you need for gauge)
hose clamp (for the cheap guys like me who dont have a compass)
14 gauge wire (I used 14 for the main hook up and ground)
18 gauge wire (wireing in lights for gauges)
assortment of wireing connectors (butt end connectors, scotch locks, ring terminals)
and the most important piece....the voltage gauge! (new or used as long as it works you will be fine) (Volkswagen/Audi gauges are made by VDO and come with their own mounting bracket. I have used them for YEARS!)
As with all electrical repairs DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!
Start off by finding where you want you gauge to be. I put mine in the left "wing" of my dash bezel. For those that have a factory voltage gauge you obviously dont need this. Take your compass and mark the proper size hole for your gauge. If you went with the hose clamp method make sure the clap is big enough to fit around the gauge so you have the size, then mark the INNER diameter of the hose clamp onto the dash bezel. If you used the hose clamp method you already used the sharpie, but if not use the sharpie to make your mark a bit more visible so you dont cut off center. use the proper size hole saw and cut the hole in the bezel. If you don't have a hole saw, like me, use the drill bits and drill holes AROUND the INNER part of the mark you just made.
(Figure 1)
If you went cheap method you will need to cut out the part that is where the gauge will go. Take the knife and cut it out. Then take the rasp file and smooth out any rough spots. Don't take too much off before you test fit the gauge. test fit the gauge. If it does not fit use the rasp to enlarge the diameter of the hole you made until the gauge fits in. Mine is a tight fit so it won't move around much.
Since I went with a VDO gauge out of a JY Audi (Fig. 2) I made sure to grab the plugs and lighting wiring as far back as I could.
(Figure 2)
The Audi ran 2 wires for the ground and feed lines. So just connect the feed lines together and butt connect them to a piece of wire long enough to go to the fuse box. The ground is the same thing but I ran it to one of the cluster mounting screws (Fig. 3). Mine mounts into metal but others may not, so find a suitable ground. I ran the feed line to the cold side of the radio fuse (no power when fuse pulled) (Fig. 4).
(Figure 3)
(Figure 4)
It showed 12v in accessory and 13.4v at idle so I figured that would be a good place to tap in. Lighting came from my tach lighting. I grounded the light ground to the ground for the gauge itself and used a scotch lock to connect it to my tach light feed wire. Works great! Once the gauge is put in, secured and wired up re-install the dash bezel and reconnect the battery. Test to make sure your connections are sound and enjoy!
Well heres what I did to install my voltage gauge
Tools required:
cordless or corded drill
holesaw (approximate size to your gauge)
drill bits (if you dont have a holesaw)
knife or small saw blade
rasp file (smoothing out OR enlarging the hole to make gauge fit)
a cheap slide or dial caliper (measureing your gauge)
sharpie pen (for marking where you want your cut to be)
compass (for marking the size hole you need for gauge)
hose clamp (for the cheap guys like me who dont have a compass)
14 gauge wire (I used 14 for the main hook up and ground)
18 gauge wire (wireing in lights for gauges)
assortment of wireing connectors (butt end connectors, scotch locks, ring terminals)
and the most important piece....the voltage gauge! (new or used as long as it works you will be fine) (Volkswagen/Audi gauges are made by VDO and come with their own mounting bracket. I have used them for YEARS!)
As with all electrical repairs DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!
Start off by finding where you want you gauge to be. I put mine in the left "wing" of my dash bezel. For those that have a factory voltage gauge you obviously dont need this. Take your compass and mark the proper size hole for your gauge. If you went with the hose clamp method make sure the clap is big enough to fit around the gauge so you have the size, then mark the INNER diameter of the hose clamp onto the dash bezel. If you used the hose clamp method you already used the sharpie, but if not use the sharpie to make your mark a bit more visible so you dont cut off center. use the proper size hole saw and cut the hole in the bezel. If you don't have a hole saw, like me, use the drill bits and drill holes AROUND the INNER part of the mark you just made.
(Figure 1)
If you went cheap method you will need to cut out the part that is where the gauge will go. Take the knife and cut it out. Then take the rasp file and smooth out any rough spots. Don't take too much off before you test fit the gauge. test fit the gauge. If it does not fit use the rasp to enlarge the diameter of the hole you made until the gauge fits in. Mine is a tight fit so it won't move around much.
Since I went with a VDO gauge out of a JY Audi (Fig. 2) I made sure to grab the plugs and lighting wiring as far back as I could.
(Figure 2)
The Audi ran 2 wires for the ground and feed lines. So just connect the feed lines together and butt connect them to a piece of wire long enough to go to the fuse box. The ground is the same thing but I ran it to one of the cluster mounting screws (Fig. 3). Mine mounts into metal but others may not, so find a suitable ground. I ran the feed line to the cold side of the radio fuse (no power when fuse pulled) (Fig. 4).
(Figure 3)
(Figure 4)
It showed 12v in accessory and 13.4v at idle so I figured that would be a good place to tap in. Lighting came from my tach lighting. I grounded the light ground to the ground for the gauge itself and used a scotch lock to connect it to my tach light feed wire. Works great! Once the gauge is put in, secured and wired up re-install the dash bezel and reconnect the battery. Test to make sure your connections are sound and enjoy!
